We start at piazza Farnese to see its ancient granite fountains and Renaissance Palazzo Farnese, a masterpiece by Michelangelo. Behind the palace is via Giulia.

Continue on to piazza Campo de’ Fiori, a typical market place, and discover how the buildings in the area follow the plan of ancient  Theatre of Pompey still under the ground. Walk along the profile of the theatre on via dei Giubbonari, a modern shopping street, to the archaeological area in Largo Argentina,  now a cats’ sanctuary, where we see ruins of 4 ancient temples. On the way, stop at a couple of famous bakeries!

Next is most famous Fountain of the Turtles. From here we enter the Jewish Ghetto to reach Portico D’ottavia, where ancient columns fuse with modern buildings. An apartment building turns out to be in fact the astonishing Theatre of Marcellus. Temple to Bellona and Temple of Apollo Sosiano stand right next.

From here we go by peaceful piazza Margana to get back to the beaten track by Capitoline Hill.

Duration: 3 hours

Entrance fee for Pantheon: 5 euro, free for children under 18, 2 euro between 18 and 25.

Best in the morning on weekdays, as the Market at Campo de’ Fiori is closed pm and on Sundays and holidays.